Beyond the Blue Mosque in Istanbul Loraine Whysall

There are three sites first-time visitors head for on their first morning in Istanbul. We were no different. With hundreds of others we made our way to the Blue Mosque, then to Aya Sophya (or, Hagia Sophia, a former Byzantine church, then Ottoman mosque, now museum) and lastly to the Topkapi Palace. You can see all three places comfortably in a day as they are all right next to one another in Sultanahmet, the European side.

To visit the Blue Mosque, men and women must be appropriately dressed. No shorts for men, arms covered for women - or a pashmina is given out at the door to cover up. Shoes must be taken off and carried in a plastic bag.

The 1,400-year-old Aya Sophya is one of the most majestic buildings in the world, with beautiful mosaics and a monumental dome that rises 55.6 metres from floor level and has a massive diameter of 31.24 metres. Two absolute must-sees are here - the Deesis mosaic of Christ and the great marble jars from the ancient Greek city of Pergamon. But the place is big enough to drive a Smart car without hitting anyone.

The Topkapi Palace has a lush garden setting atop a hill. The highlight is the harem, which costs extra to get into but is well worth it. Don't bother waiting in line to see the jewels. They're not worth the wait.