Rehan Ansari's incredible Kebab Run in Karachi
I was staying in uber-trendy Old Clifton, which has a number of parks nearby. One is near Mohatta Palace, another is the huge Zamzama Park and then there is the gargantuan Jehangir Kothari Park. Each is a 20-minute walk from the other. I made sure I walked in all of them to build up an appetite for my kebab run.
My totally unscientific food run began in Society, a vast residential and commercial area built in the 1950s, which has lovely tree-lined avenues and Art Deco-style houses. The two people leading the kebab run live there. Adil Moosajee, 33, runs a boutique in fashionable Zamzama and the new Forum Mall. He is also a scion of the Moosajee retail outfit that has been around downtown Karachi’s Saddar district for 150 years. His friend Tanveer Abdullah, 50, heads an event management company and has recently worked on a photoarchive of Karachi’s history for the Dawn newspaper. He also belongs to the Bohri community. I felt sure they would know both the old and the new in trends, including food. I was right: their eyes lit up when I said “kebab run”.
The first places they took me – Al Kabab and Ghaffar, which are near each other in Society – are for kebab afficionados. The fare is the finest, though perhaps the mince of Ghaffar’s kebab is very slightly finer than Al Kabab’s. But this is not the world’s most comfortable eating experience. You eat kebabs sitting in the car or on chairs between cars. And there is no point in asking for a doggie bag because kebabs really have to be eaten the minute they are cooked. The kebabs from these eateries are famous simply as kebabs from Ghaffar or Al Kabab. No one, neither the customers nor the proprietors, is interested in their antecedents, as in whether they are Punjabi style, or from Lucknow, Hyderabad or Chennai....
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